Quick
Setup
The following are things to take into consideration when
setting up your camera. These are just suggestions for getting the
best quality, not photo-laws, so use your own judgment.
1.) Begin by using the highest
image quality you can. This usually
means Jpeg Large. You should also select the finest setting (may
even be superfine) which may be text saying superfine, or
a graphic showing a semicircle or a staircase icon; choose the semicircle
indicating smoother.
The idea here is that you spent all that money on a gazillion megapixel camera
so why not use all those pixels? Also, how large you can print an image and
the quality are directly related to the amount of information you capture when
you push the button, in other words, megapixels.
Since you never really know
how you will use the image, take it as large as you can and reduce it later if
you want. You can always make images smaller, but not larger.
2.) Select the lowest ISO. ISO will be explained later, but by selecting
your lowest ISO, you are choosing the camera's true sensitivity to available
light. This will result in better quality images. By default, this is
set to AUTO.
3.) AUTO White Balance is fine unless you know exactly what kind of light
you are shooting in, and even then the camera usually does an adequate
job of setting the correct white balance.
4.) Turn OFF Digital Zoom unless you have some indication of when it
is going between optical and digital zoom. Optical Zoom is the lens physically
moving away from the sensor (the electronic noise and the moving lens).
Digital Zoom is an algorithm that digitally crops and reassigns pixels
resulting in lower image quality.
5.) Turn OFF Camera/Shutter Sound. It's really annoying, so keep it on
if you must, but it makes covert photography difficult.
6.) Change your Color Space (Settings, Parameters) to Adobe
RGB if you
have the ability to do so. This is a more accurate, though less vibrant/saturated,
range of color that the camera will capture. This will make printing
at home easier. Keep it set to its default sRGB if you only print online. Turn
off any color boost like Vivid Color.
7.) Turn Off the Date Stamp. This is the setting that
puts an orange date across your image. Besides ruining your image, it
is totally unnecessary since the date is saved in the file within its
metadata (explained later).
8.) Locate and use your Exposure Compensation.
Exposure
Compensation is one of the easiest ways to "over-ride"
your camera's exposure settings. This is a better choice than changing
your ISO, because it doesn't amplify anything, it just shifts your shutter
speed and/or aperture settings, thus retaining your image quality.
Because the camera exposure meter can be fooled by tricky lighting situations,
most cameras will have the ability to compensate for the camera's faults. Sometimes
this is labeled EV or Exposure Compensation.
Usually it is easy to access (some even have a +/- button on the back, if not
try your function button).
Basically by setting this, you tell your camera to
over or under expose the scene by the amount you have set. This means that if
you are having trouble getting the right exposure, you can fake your camera out.
Just look at your LCD screen to decide if your image is bright enough.
Most camera's will have a couple other things to help with exposure such as a
histogram and blinking colored areas showing areas of clipped detail.
You can only access exposure compensation settings in
Program, Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority modes.
In Manual
mode, you have the ability to under or over expose naturally because
the camera is not making any of the decisions, you are.
Because it is so easy to loose your highlights in digital photography due to
a smaller range of light that sensors can capture (called exposure latitude),
I I suggest under-exposing by -1/3 to an entire stop, your pictures
will be darker, but you can always fix that if you need to, but at least you
have your hi-light detail.
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